Water Cooler

[KILROY]

SSSSWWWEEETTTTT!!! Looks good bro!!!

[vistalize]

Thx brotha! Was very ecstatic was right about the headers. I wasn't connecting em right so the the power button was booting up the computer. Wasn't too worried about cable management on this due to the LED plugs for the fan and water cooler were not connecting into the adapter they provided me right. I had to mess with the prongs a little bit to get them a little tighter on there. But kept coming loose everytime I put em on would just fall right out. But after much patient and adjusting the adapter and cords to the right degree and angles I was able to get the LED's to light up lol. Either way the system was running fine. Cooler is up to par. I dont hear a peep from this thing anymore which is awesome. Just hope someone doesn't come and move my computer or my LED lights might mess up again! Any help as to how I can get these little connectors into the prongs right without them slipping out so easy would be greatly appreciated. I tried tape but that shit didn't work. I found the best way was to get the 3 prongs and use my fingers to make them closer together so when I did plug the LED fan into the connector it would make a more snug fit. (Im confused as to why they didn't put a clip on there just like all the other plugs) I guess LED plugs are diff

[KILROY]

Are you saying that the motherboard has the prongs, but not the connector that connects to the prongs on the motherboard? Was the motherboard new? If so, it should have had the connector already on it. If that is what you tried tape on, it wouldn't hold due to the heat inside the tower will cause the tape adhesive to dry out and come undone, even painters tape will do the same.

I don't know what type of connector it is, and to list a bunch of names here wouldn't help you, like SATA, PCI-E connector, etc. This is what I would suggest. Go online, look for a cable that has the same type of connector, order it. After you receive it, cut off the connector. I don't know if you know how to solder, or have a soldering gun or iron, but if you do, solder it onto the wires of your LED's. If you don't have a soldering gun or iron, then you can strip the wires and use butt connectors to connect them together. Then all you have to do is plug the connector onto the board, done!

There is another way, but you will have to connect wire to each of the wires on the LED's. Like take a paperclip and cut it into strips and connect the strips to each wire on the LED's wires, separately. Then take some adhesive glue, I like to use Gorilla Glue, and adhere each metal strip to it's connector on the board. The Gorilla Glue will hold, but if you don't have a glue strong enough, then you would have to let it set and dry, then add a bit of clay around the terminal to keep it in place.

[vistalize]

I'm not sure how to explain it. It just takes a little tinkering to get the LED running right. I got it now.

[OldGuy]

On an unrelated note, I've gone through three wireless mice in the past two years. Sick of the whole battery thing. So I broke down and bought a wired mouse. Not the best but not the worst either. Just 6k DPI but it's better than I had. So far I like it and it seems some of the "trigger lag" I've been wondering about is gone. Now I just gotta figure out the best settings. Corsair Harpoon, $28 at wally world, if anyone's curious.

For the first time in a long time, I can do falling sniper shots again... fly up, fall, and hit the target on the way down. Head shot every time. Haven't been able to do that in a very long time. Gonna have to try that in Titan now.

[perrinoia]

Yeah, wired mice and internet connections are far superior to wireless.

[OldGuy]

Weird issue with the new wired mouse. I can only wake my computer by clicking the mouse. Moving it no longer works. Any ideas? Thanks.

[perrinoia]

Depends. What's the make and model?

If the manufacturer hasn't provided you with the option, you could always hack the firmware or buy a different mouse.

Personally, i prefer not having the mouse sensor active when my computer is asleep as it wastes power and i only want to wake my computer intentionally, not by accidentally jostling the mouse.

Then again, i live on a moving platform.

[KILROY]

No, sorry, no ideas. I don't put my computer in sleep mode overnight. The only time I put anything in sleep, is if I'm just going to step away from it for awhile and be back on it again later, but even my wireless mouse doesn't have the option to wake the computer I use by moving, it only removes the screen saver if not in sleep mode.

[OldGuy]

Update. I'm with Perin now on the mouse thing. I just either click the mouse or hit the escape key to wake the computer. I also just bought a Corsair keyboard since the old one was about too bite the dust. Add to that, finally, a USB 3.0 hub since I've been using this old junky one that's been around forever.

On an unrelated note, I'm about to either build a PC or pay someone to put it together. It's not that I can't build. It's more I'm getting old and don't wanna mess with it. Probably let a local shop do the build since they've been around for decades, I know them, and trust them. Or, I'll show them some specs and let them suggest something. Only thing bugging me is having to deal with individual component warranties.

Probably going to be a best bang for the buck kind of thing. Here's what I'm considering so far:

Case: CORSAIR Carbide 200R
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370XP SLI
CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K
CPU Cooler: Mugen 5 Rev. B
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 2400
SSD: Samsung 970 EVO Plus Series - 1TB PCIe NVMe
GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1660 Ti WINDFORCE OC 6G
PSU: EVGA 650 GQ

All speculation at this point. I'm sort of leaning towards a smaller NVME plus a 1TB SSD but can't decide. Nothing is set in stone at this point. It may be overkill for a development machine since I'm really not a gamer.