TinkerToy
Re: TinkerToy
NICE!!! NICE DINGY TOO!!! Man, they could use your services in the flood zones. I'm still cleaning up after that last storm we had with down trees and what not. Trying to get things organized before this next storm this weekend.
Re: TinkerToy
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Re: TinkerToy
I was racing around the bay, yesterday, and burned 30 gallons of gasoline.
This morning, the battery was dead.
I jump started it, and drove around for awhile, until my stereo said low battery.
Some friends are bringing me a pair of AGM batteries to swap out for the time being, but I'm worried the outboard isn't charging the battery.
Got any advice?
This morning, the battery was dead.
I jump started it, and drove around for awhile, until my stereo said low battery.
Some friends are bringing me a pair of AGM batteries to swap out for the time being, but I'm worried the outboard isn't charging the battery.
Got any advice?
Re: TinkerToy
Yeah, you have an outboard motor, the 16 ft. Tri-hull Gator with 105 Chrysler Outboard Motor I had in Louisiana that I took fishing had an internal voltage regulator built into the motor that I had to exchange to fix my charging issue. You will need to follow the wires from the running battery to find out. But....You have living quarters also, and relayed you had more than one battery, so....You could have 2 regulators. One that goes to the main running battery from the motor that's built into the motor, and one that is external that goes to the house battery that's cast aluminum that will be external. You can also have one large external that will do both. I don't know if you can trace the wires back from the batteries, but that was how I found mine, and may be the best way to verify the type of voltage regulators you have.
EDIT: Another quick thought, if you can't verify the wires, you can use a multimeter to verify if they have current or not, and do it just like a vehicle, but it might take 2 people. Turn the key on to see if the wire(s) have current, and off again, and then start the motor to see which wire has current after starting the motor and how much current. Your boat should have 12 & 24 volts.
EDIT: Another quick thought, if you can't verify the wires, you can use a multimeter to verify if they have current or not, and do it just like a vehicle, but it might take 2 people. Turn the key on to see if the wire(s) have current, and off again, and then start the motor to see which wire has current after starting the motor and how much current. Your boat should have 12 & 24 volts.
Re: TinkerToy
I am sure you meant voltage, but just in case, do NOT measure the current of a car battery with a multimeter.
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Re: TinkerToy
Well....If you own a decent Multimeter it WILL have a Voltage Meter built into it, and be able to do both 12 volt and 24 volt, as like the one I have when I used to be a mechanic and work on vehicles, but you will want to use the Voltage setting to verify current.
Re: TinkerToy
They brought me 2 batteries in case the engine wasn't recharging the original battery. There is only one battery connected to the boat. The original battery was a $50 lead acid battery. The new battery is a $200 sealed AGM.
They let me keep one AGM and told me I shouldn't keep the lead acid battery in my boat since it will bounce around and eventually leak.
The operating theory is that the lead acid battery would not hold a charge. I will test the AGM with my voltmeter under different stresses (engine on/off, stereo on/off) and compare the differences.
They let me keep one AGM and told me I shouldn't keep the lead acid battery in my boat since it will bounce around and eventually leak.
The operating theory is that the lead acid battery would not hold a charge. I will test the AGM with my voltmeter under different stresses (engine on/off, stereo on/off) and compare the differences.
Re: TinkerToy
True, the lead acid would have started to leak, which is why they make special cases to hold them, but they would just leak into the cases and you would have to replace both.
